I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t slightly sceptical about visiting Ko Tao, as the famous diving spot has been dubbed 'Death Island'. Eleven tourists have died in suspicious circumstances in five years, with the place supposedly run by the mafia.
Our group received multiple warnings not to visit, yet upon arrival it seemed a far cry from some of the shocking things we'd heard. In fact, my first impression was a welcome change of pace from our previous three destinations. That doesn't include the climb from Mae Haad Pier to CK Hostel, which did seem arduous after the flatness of Phi Phi Don.
But we could have no major quarrels about our three-bunk dorm room at the hostel. It was comfortable enough for the six of us and had efficient, albeit loud air con. The free tea and coffee was another added bonus.
Our group received multiple warnings not to visit, yet upon arrival it seemed a far cry from some of the shocking things we'd heard. In fact, my first impression was a welcome change of pace from our previous three destinations. That doesn't include the climb from Mae Haad Pier to CK Hostel, which did seem arduous after the flatness of Phi Phi Don.
But we could have no major quarrels about our three-bunk dorm room at the hostel. It was comfortable enough for the six of us and had efficient, albeit loud air con. The free tea and coffee was another added bonus.
Downstairs you'll find a quiet bar area, with a pool table and board games. It hardly seemed the place for lone travellers to meet others; but we enjoyed a few games of Jenga, while two musicians practiced for an upcoming performance. We didn't see much in the way of organised entertainment, unless you count the nine shots in ten seconds challenge - which one of the group would attempt, and fail, on another night.
Fortunately for us the island’s top rated Trip Advisor restaurant (at the time), Su Chilli, was just across the road. We ate there numerous times during our stay and the reviews were justified; with pork satay, fried rice with basil and chilli, and even fantastic pizzas being some picks of the bunch.
The evenings in Ko Tao were far quieter than what we’d been used to, a blessing in truth, probably due to the popularity of full-day diving courses. It’s easy and relatively affordable to become a fully qualified diver, with the typical course lasting three days and costing somewhere between 7,500 and 9,000 baht (£179.65 and £215.58). I wasn’t having any of that though, as someone with a minor mistrust of the sea and a somewhat unhealthy bank balance.
We did see signs advertising a pub crawl on the first night, but decided to take a break from organised fun. Instead we picked up a 7Eleven beer and headed onto Sairee Beach.
We did see signs advertising a pub crawl on the first night, but decided to take a break from organised fun. Instead we picked up a 7Eleven beer and headed onto Sairee Beach.
Along the beach we stumbled upon an audience of people, gathered outside Fishbowl Beach Bar, watching a fire show. One performer was brazenly spinning two flaming balls in front of people’s faces to light their cigarettes.
It wasn’t long before an overzealous and excited DJ had turned the techno up to a familiar level, and started to spray foam out of a big machine on to the beach. Some of the more inebriated punters were straight into the fray, but we decided against the inconvenience it would cause. My skin never reacts well to sketchy nightclub foam.
We went back onto the streets for a change of scenery and found another bar which, although comparatively empty, was the busiest around. It played pop music of the cheesiest variety, but there were ample seats and the option to play beer pong or connect four. One friend showed just how heated dropping coloured counters into a grid can get, throttling another friend and causing a short rift in our group. Nothing that couldn’t be solved by a few 60 baht (£1.45 Pound) gin and tonics.
Maya Beach Club seemed to be the final stop for the night, so our new gang of waifs and strays headed back down the beach to see what’s what. Inside was rammed, with the pub crawl and pockets of people from all over the island finishing here.
It wasn’t long before an overzealous and excited DJ had turned the techno up to a familiar level, and started to spray foam out of a big machine on to the beach. Some of the more inebriated punters were straight into the fray, but we decided against the inconvenience it would cause. My skin never reacts well to sketchy nightclub foam.
We went back onto the streets for a change of scenery and found another bar which, although comparatively empty, was the busiest around. It played pop music of the cheesiest variety, but there were ample seats and the option to play beer pong or connect four. One friend showed just how heated dropping coloured counters into a grid can get, throttling another friend and causing a short rift in our group. Nothing that couldn’t be solved by a few 60 baht (£1.45 Pound) gin and tonics.
Maya Beach Club seemed to be the final stop for the night, so our new gang of waifs and strays headed back down the beach to see what’s what. Inside was rammed, with the pub crawl and pockets of people from all over the island finishing here.
We joined the sing-along to some Robbie Williams classics, but being less than our boisterous selves we soon moved to the deck chairs outside. It was entertainment enough to watch people prat about on the rocks that lined the beach and shallows. As we retired to bed I’d not noticed anything sinister or untoward as ‘Death Island’ might suggest, save for a few narrow, scarcely lit paths.
In lieu of diving lessons, a few of us opted to hire mopeds so we could spend the day exploring the island and its cleaner beaches. Without much thought we chose the rental company just opposite CK Hostel, owned by a woman insistent on taking passports as a deposit. That should have been the first red flag. One friend was wise enough to take photos of the bike, but a second had lost his phone and was eager to get started.
The next flag followed when a third friend, who can’t even ride a bicycle, decided he was getting one. He had an inevitable panic, so I agreed I’d ride his moped with him on the back; but under the proviso I could finish my morning coffee first.
In lieu of diving lessons, a few of us opted to hire mopeds so we could spend the day exploring the island and its cleaner beaches. Without much thought we chose the rental company just opposite CK Hostel, owned by a woman insistent on taking passports as a deposit. That should have been the first red flag. One friend was wise enough to take photos of the bike, but a second had lost his phone and was eager to get started.
The next flag followed when a third friend, who can’t even ride a bicycle, decided he was getting one. He had an inevitable panic, so I agreed I’d ride his moped with him on the back; but under the proviso I could finish my morning coffee first.
For reasons unknown he got on the thing himself, making it less than two yards before falling sideways onto the tarmac - right in front of the rental owner. The moped had minimal aesthetic damage and the owner hardly batted an eyelid, even cleaning my friend’s wound then waving us on. But we were in her trap.
It had been a while since I’d rode a moped so I was a tad apprehensive about having my already injured friend on the back. It didn’t take long to get the hang of it, so much so we managed to lose the other two very quickly.
It had been a while since I’d rode a moped so I was a tad apprehensive about having my already injured friend on the back. It didn’t take long to get the hang of it, so much so we managed to lose the other two very quickly.
With no sign of them we took a detour up the perilous climb to High Bar, named because of its of location at the top of the island and the state of everyone in there. The fact it was very blasé about the use and sale of herbs backed up rumours of organised crime going down on the island. Still, the view was incredible and they served a mean mango smoothie.
We found the other pair soon enough and navigated to the promising Paradise Beach – which was just that. It was quiet, with hammocks to relax in, a volleyball net on the beach and water polo goals in the sea. After a few games of foot-volleyball, some swimming and sunbathing, we were reluctant to leave the tranquillity. The few other bathers were probably glad we left, taking the football away from their personal space.
We found the other pair soon enough and navigated to the promising Paradise Beach – which was just that. It was quiet, with hammocks to relax in, a volleyball net on the beach and water polo goals in the sea. After a few games of foot-volleyball, some swimming and sunbathing, we were reluctant to leave the tranquillity. The few other bathers were probably glad we left, taking the football away from their personal space.
We got the mopeds back to the hostel without any further damage, so treated ourselves to some western delights courtesy of Hippo Burger. This place has an excellent selection of quality burgers for a reasonable price; ranging from 180 to 320 baht (£4.33 - £7.70), depending how dirty and stacked you wanted your burger to be. I would personally recommend the BBQ ranch.
Afterwards we wandered back towards the beach and found a quiet resort with a bar selling Guinness, our group’s favoured poison, for 250 baht (£6.02); which is amongst the cheapest you’ll find in Thailand. We enjoyed the black stuff over few rounds of shithead, the ultimate card game, before checking out the beach clubs for a final time.
Afterwards we wandered back towards the beach and found a quiet resort with a bar selling Guinness, our group’s favoured poison, for 250 baht (£6.02); which is amongst the cheapest you’ll find in Thailand. We enjoyed the black stuff over few rounds of shithead, the ultimate card game, before checking out the beach clubs for a final time.
We looked all set to make our 9am ferry to Ko Phangan, as the first friend (who’d taken photos) returned his moped and received his passport back without hiccup.
My other two friends would receive a nasty surprise. The friend who fell anticipated some form of fine, but was stunned by a bill for 20,000 baht (£481.56) to cover a few scratches. Perhaps more outrageously, the rental she-devil wanted 10,000 baht (£240.78) from my other friend - who returned his moped in pristine condition.
A lengthy debate ensued, but the passports remained hostage in her safe. The first friend tried to join in the debate, being told to hand back his passport if he wanted to talk. No chance of that.
We also read that speaking to police was futile, with reports online that they've attempted to discredit, even cover up a rape case. Maybe the island is run by some nefarious syndicate after all.
In our predicament it seemed the safest, simplest, and cheapest, solution would be to get out of there and just buy new passports. So we all boarded a 4x4 to the pier, gesturing and waving to this wicked woman and stolen documents as we left.
It turns out a replacement passport is a real rigmarole and sadly the two friends had to pay for a return ferry a few days later. They did manage to barter the fines down by half, but it was an expensive lesson to learn.
These scams are commonplace, so be sceptical of rental places and consider a tour guide as a safer, cheaper way to take in everything Ko Tao has to offer. Or if you do want to consider a moped, try not to surrender hard copies of your passport and take plenty of pictures in view of the staff.
My other two friends would receive a nasty surprise. The friend who fell anticipated some form of fine, but was stunned by a bill for 20,000 baht (£481.56) to cover a few scratches. Perhaps more outrageously, the rental she-devil wanted 10,000 baht (£240.78) from my other friend - who returned his moped in pristine condition.
A lengthy debate ensued, but the passports remained hostage in her safe. The first friend tried to join in the debate, being told to hand back his passport if he wanted to talk. No chance of that.
We also read that speaking to police was futile, with reports online that they've attempted to discredit, even cover up a rape case. Maybe the island is run by some nefarious syndicate after all.
In our predicament it seemed the safest, simplest, and cheapest, solution would be to get out of there and just buy new passports. So we all boarded a 4x4 to the pier, gesturing and waving to this wicked woman and stolen documents as we left.
It turns out a replacement passport is a real rigmarole and sadly the two friends had to pay for a return ferry a few days later. They did manage to barter the fines down by half, but it was an expensive lesson to learn.
These scams are commonplace, so be sceptical of rental places and consider a tour guide as a safer, cheaper way to take in everything Ko Tao has to offer. Or if you do want to consider a moped, try not to surrender hard copies of your passport and take plenty of pictures in view of the staff.
It may be worth visiting for the beaches, food and diving lessons, but heed the rumours; keep your wits about you, avoid confrontations and avoid causing trouble.