The city of Da Lat promises year-round cool weather, mad architecture and the chance for serious adventure. With the opportunity to form a new adoptive family, see Alice's Wonderland and get your heart racing on a voyage through the canyons; a couple of days in this unique highland location is a must for anyone travelling throughout Vietnam.
We were mistaken for thinking every bus in Vietnam would be as punctual and comfortable as the sleeper bus. The trip to Da Lat started off cramped with two too many people in a mini bus, but it was about to get a lot worse. After a 30 minute wait in the middle of nowhere, a moped pulled up and a Vietnamese chap climbed aboard. Along with his house plant and three bags of fertiliser.
Two hours later and we landed in the bustling city of Da Lat, where we were greeted by a customary cup of green tea at Da Lat Sky Hostel. Luckily the six of us had a room practically to ourselves, aside from a somnolent Dutch girl who would crop up from time to time - asleep more often than not.
We were mistaken for thinking every bus in Vietnam would be as punctual and comfortable as the sleeper bus. The trip to Da Lat started off cramped with two too many people in a mini bus, but it was about to get a lot worse. After a 30 minute wait in the middle of nowhere, a moped pulled up and a Vietnamese chap climbed aboard. Along with his house plant and three bags of fertiliser.
Two hours later and we landed in the bustling city of Da Lat, where we were greeted by a customary cup of green tea at Da Lat Sky Hostel. Luckily the six of us had a room practically to ourselves, aside from a somnolent Dutch girl who would crop up from time to time - asleep more often than not.
The accommodation culture focuses on a family vibe, where the hosts encouraged all the guests to come down for a communal meal with them. The concept is a great one and it seems to be the same at many hostels throughout the city.
We made an effort to make it to every evening meal with our hosts and were treated to buffet style meals with an array of Asian and western foods. It would have also been wrong of us to defer the offer of free rice wine, provided in a huge vat along with each buffet, even though the stuff is vile.
We made an effort to make it to every evening meal with our hosts and were treated to buffet style meals with an array of Asian and western foods. It would have also been wrong of us to defer the offer of free rice wine, provided in a huge vat along with each buffet, even though the stuff is vile.
When we took to the city, we weaved about the winding streets and manoeuvred a few tricky road crossings before stumbling upon a local market. As we passed each stall, every vendor had some sort of sweet, fruit or nut on offer for us to try. I sampled a couple, but determination to escape and find somewhere for a proper meal eventually prevailed. A quiet cafe gave me my first taste of pho, the Vietnamese national dish, made up of broth, rice noodles and beef.
After more winding streets we reached the destination that many people had been talking about, the Hằng Nga Guesthouse. 'The Crazy House', as it's widely known, is a controversial creation of Vietnamese architect Dang Viet Nga; an unorthodox building unlike anything I - or the local population - had ever seen before.
After more winding streets we reached the destination that many people had been talking about, the Hằng Nga Guesthouse. 'The Crazy House', as it's widely known, is a controversial creation of Vietnamese architect Dang Viet Nga; an unorthodox building unlike anything I - or the local population - had ever seen before.
We paid our token entry fee and entered the labyrinth of Gaudi and Dali infused design, scattered with mushrooms, cobwebs and other surreal patterns. We ascended thin staircases up a tree structure, which spiralled and looped over the rooftops, before plummeting down into rooms and tunnels of more mysteries. One room in particular would have made the March Hare and the Hatter feel right at home.
This place is perfect for a game of manhunt - although we were unable to hide from Chinese tourists as they snapped yet another picture of us. Perhaps we were befitting the expressionist design to warrant such attention.
This place is perfect for a game of manhunt - although we were unable to hide from Chinese tourists as they snapped yet another picture of us. Perhaps we were befitting the expressionist design to warrant such attention.
Later that evening we found ourselves exploring deeper into a version of Alice's Wonderland when we arrived at 100 Roofs Cafe. This bar has similar architecture to the Crazy House, with five or six floors of convoluted staircases, tunnels and alcoves, with seating areas tucked into nooks or protruding out on balconies.
Towards the back of this maze, or in the nautical themed basement with giant, trippy sea life sculptures, it's easy to get lost or get wrapped up in someone's mischief. Particularly as the beer starts to flow, it's great fun to go scuttling through the passages or hiding in crevices; startling each other or other explorers.
This type of bar needs to launch in the UK. But the rapturous laughter, hollering and hooting of people in the 100 Roofs Cafe tunnels would be replaced by some sinister scallies in the UK - who'd prey on the electrical goods of those unfortunate enough to encounter them.
Things couldn't get too raucous in Da Lat though as the city has a relatively early evening curfew, which was definitely for the best as a canyoning trip awaited the next morning.
A hearty 'family' breakfast of pancakes and a short drive up into the hills, then we were soon receiving our safety talk in the morning sun. As I tried to digest the information that my life may potentially depend on very shortly, I was poised between nerves and excitement. Particularly as three people, who my friends had met, died doing this same activity months earlier.
Things couldn't get too raucous in Da Lat though as the city has a relatively early evening curfew, which was definitely for the best as a canyoning trip awaited the next morning.
A hearty 'family' breakfast of pancakes and a short drive up into the hills, then we were soon receiving our safety talk in the morning sun. As I tried to digest the information that my life may potentially depend on very shortly, I was poised between nerves and excitement. Particularly as three people, who my friends had met, died doing this same activity months earlier.
The first waterfall abseil was a nice introduction and eased the nerves, but concentrating on my repelling technique meant I didn't contemplate entry to the waters below - ice cold. The initial shock caused me to scramble clumsily into a rock and receive a sobering bruise to the knee. The technique did improve from there on.
A surprise upside-down, backwards ride down a waterfall slide followed a few abseils; with the cameras watching, I was somehow able to hide the panic and concern of spinal injury. It was just the thrill and encouragement needed to tackle an impending 12 metre cliff jump, opposed to a seven metre jump or a walk-of-shame to the bottom.
A surprise upside-down, backwards ride down a waterfall slide followed a few abseils; with the cameras watching, I was somehow able to hide the panic and concern of spinal injury. It was just the thrill and encouragement needed to tackle an impending 12 metre cliff jump, opposed to a seven metre jump or a walk-of-shame to the bottom.
At the top of the cliff, the cravens and 7m warriors were ushered down a small slope. Watching on, we realised we'd have to jump far enough outwards to clear the 7m platform that jutted out a couple of metres. My heart rate soared at the sight.
Two athletic guys stepped up first and cleared it with ease, but the next two jumpers pumped the anxiety right back into all of us. One girl took a tumble on her run up, barely clearing the rocks but for her momentum. The second girl lost faith and stuttered on the approach, clipping the lower platform on her way down.
Two athletic guys stepped up first and cleared it with ease, but the next two jumpers pumped the anxiety right back into all of us. One girl took a tumble on her run up, barely clearing the rocks but for her momentum. The second girl lost faith and stuttered on the approach, clipping the lower platform on her way down.
After a lengthy wait with baited breath, she emerged in sight below - visibly shaken, but unharmed. The guides reiterated that we must be brave and hurl off the edge without hesitation, or death was a legitimate possibility. My heart rate doubled.
A few more jumps and I was up. I worked myself into a frenzy, counting in German for some reason, and launched into the air. A second of relief as I cleared the jut was followed by a lurch in my stomach, a realisation of far (it felt) I still had to fall.
The splash sent an explosion through my right ear drum, but then a sense of jubilation accompanied the accomplishment as I surfaced, alive. I had caused a couple of days of lasting pain to my ear though, and my friend who hit the water after me smashed his top lip in the process.
It was too late to start worrying about the depth of insurance coverage, there was only one obstacle remaining - 'the washing machine'. The trick with this abseil is to repel quickly when you enter the waterfall, then release the rope and allow yourself to be washed out. Fail to do it correctly and you're left dangling and spinning like a washing machine.
A few more jumps and I was up. I worked myself into a frenzy, counting in German for some reason, and launched into the air. A second of relief as I cleared the jut was followed by a lurch in my stomach, a realisation of far (it felt) I still had to fall.
The splash sent an explosion through my right ear drum, but then a sense of jubilation accompanied the accomplishment as I surfaced, alive. I had caused a couple of days of lasting pain to my ear though, and my friend who hit the water after me smashed his top lip in the process.
It was too late to start worrying about the depth of insurance coverage, there was only one obstacle remaining - 'the washing machine'. The trick with this abseil is to repel quickly when you enter the waterfall, then release the rope and allow yourself to be washed out. Fail to do it correctly and you're left dangling and spinning like a washing machine.
After all the white knuckle escapades and a long jungle trek back to the bus, we were all still feeling pumped and discussing all the near-death experiences. I highly recommend that anyone tries a canyoning trip and must add it's very unlikely you'll actually die. It did cost about £30 each though so make sure to budget for it if you're travelling.
By the evening the fatigue of our canyon voyage was really starting to kick in. So after a quick pit stop at the 100 Roofs Cafe, we ended the night and our time in Da Lat with a few bottles of Saigon on the tiny Sky Hostel balcony. The next morning, we were whisked away from the hostel family and mad architecture, for the mammoth journey to Hoi An.
By the evening the fatigue of our canyon voyage was really starting to kick in. So after a quick pit stop at the 100 Roofs Cafe, we ended the night and our time in Da Lat with a few bottles of Saigon on the tiny Sky Hostel balcony. The next morning, we were whisked away from the hostel family and mad architecture, for the mammoth journey to Hoi An.